You may or may not remember long long ago in January when I told you about the 20s and 30s inspired pattern making course I have been doing this term.
I started by gathering inspiration, and then came up with the one on the left as my final dress design.
With the sleeves to be beaded something like this.
Rather than design and make a dress that would rarely get worn, my intention was to make a slightly more practical dress. However, a practical dress meant that I wouldn’t learn as much, so practicality went out the window! I lengthened the skirt to floor length, cut it on the bias (at a 45 degree angle to the normal grainline), and added a more shaped dropped waistline. A whole new dress really!
I made the pattern to my pre-bump size so am not actually able to fit it at the moment. This means I have only made it to the toile (rough) stage. And this was it before my lesson this morning…
It is very rough, and the cheap and nasty polyester that I got to do the toile either doesn’t press or melts under the iron, so it was a tough job getting all the seams looking anywhere near good!
By making this toile I was able to see what needed altering on my pattern to make it work better. For example, I had sewn the bust darts too long, so altered my paper pattern by shortening them by 2cm.
You can also see from the photo that the sleeve is a bit flat and isn’t scalloped yet like my initial design.
To remedy this I first marked three points on the sleeve and slashed up towards the shoulder.
I then added more fabric under the existing sleeve to add extra width.
The next step was to measure how much fabric I had added, and transfer this to the paper pattern. In the case of the middle slash, I needed to add 4cm.
By doing this for all three slashes, and then taping pattern paper into the gaps, I had created a fuller sleeve.
I then added the scalloped shaping and toiled the new sleeve. Much better!
I found this bracelet that I made, and am wondering if something like this would be nice on the sleeve edging (you need to use your imagination a bit for this – I only pinned it on!).
In a similar way to altering the sleeve, I also dropped the neck a bit but will have to make my final decision when I can get in to the toile to see exactly where I would like it to sit.
I also learnt about cutting and sewing on the bias, ways of finishing vintage dresses rather than lining them, and some other stuff, but I think I might save all that for other blog posts so that I don’t bombard / bore you with them all today!
Have a good weekend everyone!