In my pattern making class we are focusing on the bodice this term. You can see my first post about where bodice darts come from here.
We started by making a basic bodice block. It is by altering this block that other patterns can be created.
Here you can just about see the bust and waist darts.
This particular block has one dart from the waist.
These blocks are all made to a standard size 12 using a formula. There are lots of different pattern drafting books, and each author has their own formula and way of producing a block it seems.
From these blocks, you can then create a pattern by drawing round them and adding seam allowance. You also have to transfer all the relevant information from the block, such as dart points, balance marks etc.
And then from the pattern you can make a toile! In this case, the toile was made to check that the pattern works, and whether the notches for attaching the sleeves were in the right place (they weren’t!).
The sleeves are hanging slightly forward, which is the correct way (phew!).
So now that I’ve made the amendments that were necessary I should be able to use by initial block to create other styles.